Cruise Ships & Chowder

Cruise ships returned to Arctic Bay and Nunavut this summer.  They were banned from the territory during the COVID-19 pandemic but were permitted to return when the disease was declared endemic.  Arctic Bay only hosts the smallest size cruise ships because our population is only 1,000 people.  We don’t have the necessary infrastructure to host anything larger.  Pond Inlet has hosted large cruise ships, but most of the tourists stay on ship while Inuit go aboard to perform and sell arts & crafts.

The first cruise ship I saw anchored was on August 15.  It was the Hanseatic Inspiration cruise ship, operated by Hapag-Lloyd Cruises.  The ship accommodates 230 passengers, not including crew, according to the website.  Crewmembers brought several tourists ashore using Zodiac boats.  The tourists walked around town for a few hours, taking photographs, visiting stores, and talking to locals.  They returned to the ship and the vessel departed before nightfall.

A different cruise ship anchored in the bay the next day (August 16).  The ship was the Sylvia Earle, operated by Aurora Expeditions.  Just like the previous vessel, tourists were brought ashore on Zodiac boats and given a few hours to explore the town, take pictures, visit stores, and speak to locals.  I photographed several tourists speaking to Inuit children while they waited to return to the Sylvia Earle.  The vessel left in the evening.

I was gifted maktaaq chowder by a staff member.  It was made by her husband and the meat came from the narwhal that was cut up on August 9.  I’ve tried raw maktaaq before, but it didn’t agree with my taste buds.  This time, heating the chowder in the microwave did the trick.  I wolfed down the chowder and my stomach didn’t have a problem digesting the maktaaq.  It was so good that I had another bowl.               

A Quick Summer & A Narwhal To Skin

Warning: The images contained in this post may be graphic for some.

My summer vacation was quick, or at least, felt quick.  I didn’t really travel anywhere and stayed in one place.  More money for an expensive trip in the future, I guess.  I stayed with family and visited old friends.  I also spent 2 weeks completing my sealift order.  I drove to many stores all over town, bought a year’s worth of items, and personally delivered them to the local shipping company.  They do offer a pickup service, but I decided against it.  They delivered my stuff to the port in Montreal where it was crated and placed on a Desgagnes ship.  My stuff should arrive next month (September). 

I flew to Arctic Bay in early August.  I wanted to get reacclimatized before the start of school.  There were no travel delays this time.  I spent a few hours reorganizing my residence.

The first day for (school) staff was August 9.  School Administration held a welcome back staff meeting in my classroom.  There were several new faces.  Brief introductions were made by everyone.  The principal and vice-principal went over the general plan of the upcoming school year, what needs to be done before the first school day, and upcoming events in August.  Staff were then dismissed to prepare their classrooms.

About thirty minutes later, word quickly spread that the husband of a student support assistant (SSA) was getting ready to harvest a narwhal on the beach.  He caught the large female mammal the day before.  Everyone grabbed their jackets and walked over to where the harvest would take place.  I made sure to bring my camera.

Knives were being sharpened when we arrived.  The narwhal was big.  I started filming as the first knife went it.  Everyone watched as one large rectangular cut was made on one side.  The knife was sharp.  The rectangle was divided into smaller cuts and pieces were removed in large slices.  A few more hunters joined the harvest.  The flippers and tail were removed and placed in a separate pile.  The narwhal was carefully moved onto its other side and the cutting process was repeated.  Several pieces were distributed to people in plastic bags.  I didn’t take any because I have enough country food at home.  Staff returned to school after 45 minutes.

Fast forward to August 14, the first day of school for students.  Staff arrived early in the morning to setup the gym and prepare food for the welcome back assembly and community breakfast.  The Home Ec Room was busy with staff cutting various fruits, meats, and cheese.  Hard boiled eggs were also prepared.  The food was then carried to the gym in large bowls and trays.  The bowls & trays were placed on a long row of tables.  Juice boxes, coffee, tea, and paper plates were placed on smaller tables.  Food plates were prepared before the bell rang.  This would make distribution easier and faster.  You don’t want to keep the audience waiting.

The assembly began at 9am.  The principal welcomed everyone in attendance to the beginning of the 2023-2024 school year.  He then called the staff up to the front to briefly introduce themselves and state their role in the school.  The food was then blessed by an Elder and then distributed by staff.  The food tasted great.  Everyone was done eating after 30 minutes.

Students and teachers were dismissed to their classrooms.  High school students stayed behind to help clean the gym.  They went to their respective classes thereafter.

The school year had officially begun.