The
last week of April was all about Nunavut Quest, the annual sled dog race that
began in 1999 to commemorate the creation of Nunavut. The last time the race came to Arctic Bay was
two years ago when I first arrived in the community. Arctic Bay was the starting line and the
finish line was in Igloolik. Last year,
competitors raced from Igloolik to Pond Inlet, bypassing Arctic Bay
altogether. This year, Arctic Bay would
serve as the finish line. The race would
begin in Pond Inlet, 238km to the southeast, but competitors would have to mush
across 500km of arctic wilderness.
Competitors
are allowed to employ two helpers who transport supplies loaded on qamutiks and
skidoos. Think of it as a mobile pit
crew. What also makes the race a little
easier for competitors is that you don't have to cross the finish line
first. Nunavut Quest is a rally race
where dog mushers race from point-to-point in the least amount of time. Their total times are added up and the racer
with the least amount of time overall wins.
This format enables teams and their dogs to rest & recuperate. Teams were required to travel 80km per day
The
race was scheduled to begin on April 14 but had to be delayed until April 21
because of weather. When word got out
that the race finally began, all of Arctic Bay was feverishly waiting for the arrival
of the racers. Updates were passed along
via Facebook and word-of-mouth.
Preparations were made to welcome the competitors, support teams, and race
officials.
The
hamlet plowed a wide clear path out onto the ice as well as a large rectangle
at the end. A large snow bank was built on
the far side of the rectangle. From a
distance, the rectangle looks like a very large skating rink but it's actually
a makeshift parking lot. Spectators
could safely drive their vehicles onto the ice, park them, and then watch the
teams come in. The community hall was
being decorated for the awards ceremony on April 28th.
Support Teams |
The
arrival of the dog teams was set for Wednesday, April 27th. Afternoon classes were cancelled, permitting
staff & students to head down to the ice.
Several students from Inuujaq School were the support teams and were
coming back after being away for two weeks.
I quickly got into my outerwear and grabbed my camera & skidoo
keys. The support teams were already in
view when I got my skidoo started. I
whipped out my camera and took pictures of the very long procession of skidoos
and qamutiks. When I reviewed the photos
several days later, I counted 26 skidoos & qamutiks in the convoy.
Support Teams driving in an 's' pattern. |
I
drove down to the ice and parked my skidoo next to the makeshift parking
lot. Large crowds had already formed
near and around the snow bank. It
appeared as if the entire town was out in the frozen bay. The convoy of support teams turned towards
Arctic Bay but began driving in a winding 's' pattern. From the sky, it would have looked like a large
snake slithering on ice. When the convoy
got even closer to the crowd, the drivers changed their formation to a large
circle. The convoy completed several
rotations before the drivers parked their skidoos and qamutiks in from the
cheering people. I filmed the circular parade with my digital camera. Everyone
was waving and cheering.
People
swarmed around the support teams, shaking hands, greeting everyone in
Inuktitut, taking photographs, and sitting on the skidoos & qamutiks. I slowly walked around, taking pictures of
anything and everything. Everyone was
glad that it was a clear & sunny day.
Two years ago there was overcast and a lot of wind. There were some impressive looking iglutaks on
qamutiks; some that I would consider building myself if I ever got a
qamutik. One qamutik contained two dogs
that enjoyed being pet. I got a few good
close up shots of them. I wished I had a
drone copter with a camera so that I could capture amazing pictures and videos
from the sky. Maybe next year.
While
I walked around looking for more pictures to take, Michel came up to me and
asked if I wanted to drive out to Uluksaat Point to see the dog teams come
in. Michel is the high school math &
science teacher. At first I was a little
hesitant because I thought the dog mushers would be arriving shortly and I
didn't want to be caught on the "racetrack". But after we heard we had thirty minutes of
waiting, I agreed to the idea.
Me and the Arctic Bay Flag. |
Michel with the two flags in the background. |
We
hopped on my skidoo and drove out to Uluksaat Point which is to the south of
Arctic Bay. The drive only took a few
minutes. There were already a few
spectators waiting at the location. One
man was even standing on top of the cliffs; he must have had the best views. Two flags had been placed at the point to
tell the competitors where to turn. The
flags were of Arctic Bay & Pond Inlet.
The real finish line. |
At
about 2pm we could see the first few dog teams in the distance. It was easy to spot them since they were
collections of black specks moving across white ice. I still used my binoculars to get a good look
at the approaching teams. The dogs were
running with all their strength. All the
spectators at the point were instructed to move away from the flags, otherwise
the dogs may get confused. Michel &
I later learned that Uluksaat Point was actually the finish line. The ride into Arctic Bay was the victory lap. We headed back to town after watching the
first four dog teams race arrive at the flags and then continue on to the
community. Along the way, I took several
pictures of the people in the bay. They
looked like a swarm of ants.
We
arrived several minutes after the first four dog teams. Michel & I went to see the dog teams up
close. There were many breeds on display
but one thing was certain: all the sled dogs were tired. Many were tanning and sleeping under the
bright arctic sun. I was able to get
really close to several dogs and take some pictures. The dog team that interested me the most was
the one that was led by a white man from Clyde River. Several of his dogs had brown & white fur. Most sled dogs that I've seen either have
black & white fur or just white. I'm
not sure what breed the brown & white dogs are, so if you're a dog expert
reading this, feel free to write the correct breed as a comment to this post.
After
taking plenty of pictures, I drove to the Gas Station to refuel my skidoo &
extra gas cans. Michel didn't mind
staying behind; he wanted to speak to the dog mushers. The employee at the Gas Station was jealous
of everyone because he had to work during the race. I reassured him that his friends & family
probably took a lot of pictures and videos for him to look at. And I added that there still was the awards
ceremony the following night. He just smiled and nodded.
To Be Continued . . .
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