Monday, October 28, 2013

September, October

September 25, 2013.
My health recovered and I was in full teaching mode on September 24.  My Grade 10 Social Studies students began a new unit titled Staking the Claim: Dreams, Democracy, and Canadian Inuit.  This would be my second time teaching the unit.  This educational resource sees students learning about the history of Inuit Land Claims, a lengthy process that began in the 1970s and resulted in the signing of four land claim agreements with the Canadian federal government many years later.  The unit mostly focuses on the Nunavut Land Claims Agreement (1993), the creation of the territory of Nunavut (1999), and the Inuit people & organizations who were involved in the negotiations. 
            
The first three background chapters focus on how the Inuit lived out on the land without any outside help, the arrival of Europeans, and how Europeans exerted dominance over the Inuit through force and legislation.  My students also watched the Canadian drama film, Before Tomorrow, an Inuit movie made by the same people who made Antanarjuat: The Fast Runner.  Before Tomorrow is the third movie in the Nunavut Trilogy, and takes place in the Nunavik region of northern Quebec during the 1840s.  The second film in the trilogy is The Journals of Knud Rasmussen. 
            
In Grade 11 Social Studies, we were deep in the study of the First World War, the so-called "war to end all wars."  For late September and early October, I had my students examine Canada's contributions to the war effort at home and on the battlefields.  We looked at the Battles of Ypres, the Somme, and Passchendaele, the munitions industry, the role of women, the Halifax Explosion of 1917, and the mistreatment of German, Austrian, and Italian immigrants who were branded as 'enemy aliens'.  As well, we examined the horrors of trench warfare, shellshock, and the massive loss of lives in "no-man's land".  For the film study, we watched Passchendaele, a Canadian war film made by Canadian actor & director Paul Gross.
            
My drummers were tested on seven basic & intermediate drum rudiments on the last week of September.  They all did very well.  We continued to look at rhythms and warm up exercises in the VicFirth textbook, a routine that some were finding too repetitive, but I stressed the need to continually review them.  My drummers only have time to practice at school because they do not have sticks and practice pads at home, and reviewing the exercises strengthens their stick handling and memory. 
            
October 1, 2013
When October arrived, I introduced a new piece for them to learn for Halloween, called Zombie Squirrels.  Written by Cassidy Byars, this short beginner piece is written for snares, bass drums, quads, and cymbals.  I found the piece on a drum music sharing website and thought it was interesting enough for the drummers to perform.  They have a month to get ready so we'll see what happens on Halloween.
            
For Grade 12 Social Studies, my students studied the topic of collectivism in depth and had a review test. Most of them did fairly well.  I also gave them time in class to do research on their Social Studies Projects.  The next big item for them to complete is a formal essay on their chosen topics.      
            
On September 26, a group of high school students completed repainting the large Arctic Bay, Nunavut sign that sits on the face of a large rocky hill.  The sign is actually a large rock formation and was made in the early 20th century.    
            

Despite the arrival of October, there was still no snow on the ground nor ice in the bay.  (A far cry from what it is now).  Upon mentioning this to my students, they said I spoke too soon; the bay would start freezing in a matter of days.  The temperature hovered slightly beneath 0ºC and the sunrises over the southern mountains were picturesque. 
            
Tara research vessel.
On October 2nd, the town welcomed Tara, a large French scientific research vessel for Tara Expeditions.  The ship is 36 metres in length, 10 metres wide, and weighs 120 tons.  It is manned by a crew of five and can host up to six scientists.  Beginning in 2003, Tara Expeditions is a French non-profit organization that conducts scientific research on the world's oceans and climate change.  Their latest expedition to circumnavigate the Arctic ocean began in May and will end in November of this year.  By then, the crew & scientists will have travelled 25,000km, "study[ing] the Arctic ecosystem before a probable climate change."  Check out the links in this paragraph for more information about Tara Expeditions and its mandate.
            
The French scientists came ashore to give a presentation to the high school students of Inuujaq School.  We all shuffled into the science room after lunch and watched & listened to a PowerPoint presentation about the 5Ws & 1H of the expedition.  The presentation was filmed by the 'onboard' journalist.  You can find video here (dated 3/10/2013).  The students showed much interest and asked plenty of questions.  I was surprised to learn that the entire expedition would cost $2.5 million Canadian dollars.  The scientific adventurers left Arctic Bay the following day for Pond Inlet.  

October 5, 2013
Arctic Bay was briefly covered by snow on October 5th, but melted a day or two later.  The scene reminded me of Ottawa in November.  The CCGS Louis S. St Laurent, revisited the town between October 5 - 7 for the last time.  While I photographed the heavy icebreaker, I began to notice ice forming in the bay.  The onset of winter was fast approaching, but there was something bigger and much more exciting coming to town: high school graduation.       

October 9, 2013

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Operation Hilltop 13 - Part 2


The original plan was to have the senior cadets put up the tents alone but after noticing the fast approaching juniors, I decided to let the seniors wait until everyone was at the campsite.  That way, the seniors could show the junior cadets how to pitch the military and Inuit made tents.  The military tents we used were the Arctic 5-man, circular green tents with metal posts in the middle.  To me, they resemble pine trees.  I have slept in these tents plenty of times when I was an army cadet down south in Ottawa.  Our FTXs were staged at CFB Connaught in Kanata, and it was fun sleeping in the Arctic tents, especially in February when temperatures reached -22ºC.  The Inuit tents are white, square shaped, and held up by three wooden beams each.  I only slept in one back in May during Inuujaq School's Spring Camp.
            
Once all the juniors arrived, we got to work on pitching the tents in five designated spots.  The tents were tied to large heavy rocks with tethered ropes.  Rocks can be found anywhere and everywhere in the Arctic; there's an endless supply.  It is possible to use tent pegs but they would have to be hammered into the ground.  Once all the tents were up, the seniors and adults moved into their assigned tents.  The male and female cadets were given a white tent each, and the adult male staff would sleep in one of the Arctic 5-man tents.  Adult female staff would sleep in the female cadet tent.  Large pieces of cardboard boxes were used as flooring and everyone would sleep in army-issued sleeping bags on top of air mattresses.  As for toilet facilities . . . find a secluded area away from the camp.  Bring toilet paper if you need it.
            
After the tents were pitched, a 15-minute hot chocolate break was held.  The Coleman stove in the cadet male tent was also fired up to provide heat and to prepare boiling water to cook MREs for lunch.  MRE stands for Meal(s) Ready to Eat and is "a self-contained, individual field ration...bought by the United States military for its service members in combat[.]"  Inside an MRE pack, one can find: a main course, side dish, dessert, crackers, bread, a spread of some kind, powdered beverage, a plastic spoon, beverage mixing bag, and an accessory pack.  Despite being introduced in 1981 and in continuous development since 1993, the reputation of American MREs has been spotty at best, earning many negative nicknames, and criticisms towards their poor taste, menu selection, and dietary contents.  It may sound odd to hear Canadian cadets consuming American MREs, but it's possible because the Canadian Armed Forces get priority when it comes to receiving and consuming Canadian "MREs".           
            
Individual Meal Packs, aka IMPs, are a "type of field ration used by the Canadian Armed Forces."  Introduced in the 1980s, a single pack contains around 3,600 calories, "enough to nourish a soldier undergoing strenuous physical activity."  The contents of IMPs are pretty close to MREs, but they are organized into six different breakfast, lunch, and dinner options, and are precooked.  This enables you to safely consume them either heated or unheated.  I have consumed IMPs on many occasions and personally speaking, the quality and taste is much better than MREs.  Sure, IMPs have received criticisms over the years, and military personnel & cadets can tell you a funny story or two about them, but I'm willing to bet that given the choice, the majority of people would prefer an IMP over an MRE. 
            
For lunch, every cadet was given an MRE pack and instructed to put their main meal bag into the pot of boiling water.  The bags were cooked for about 15 minutes.  I forget what the selections were but from what I remember, the meals were okay.  They weren't as good as IMPs but at least everyone got something to eat.       
            


The junior cadets climb into the red pickup
and get ready for the ride back home.
The Commanding Officer (CO) of 3045 Army, Lt. May, arrived at the campsite several minutes after the conclusion of lunch.  The cadets formed up to for a debriefing.  He congratulated the cadets, especially the juniors, for completing the 7km hike.  Upcoming events were also announced before the cadets were dismissed.  The juniors hopped into the back of a red pickup truck and were driven back to Arctic Bay by Lt. May.
            

After the juniors had left, several adult staff and senior cadets went hiking up a nearby hill and explored the land beyond.  I would have joined them, but an adult was needed to watch over the campsite.  To pass the time, I explored the area around the camp, photographing the rocky and frozen landscape.  The hikers returned some two hours later.
            


By this time it was 1730 (5:30pm) and the weather was starting to get cold.   When the CO arrived after lunch, he had brought a pile of wood to burn.  The adult staff put several pieces of wood together and started a fire.  Everyone stood around the fire to warm up.  Many put their shoes close to the fire to warm their feet.  Some even warmed their socks.  They were reminded not to keep their shoes there for too long or else the rubber would melt.  Once everyone was warm, dinner MREs were cooked, distributed, and consumed.    
            
Sean warming his sock.
The Road to Nanisivik (facing Arctic Bay).
The sun began to set at 1930 (7:30pm).  To get a better view of the sunset, several cadets and adult staff hopped into a red pickup truck and were driven up a hill next to the campsite, following the Road to Nanisivik.  The truck was driven by Sean, the Grade 5 & 6 teacher at Inuujaq School.  Those with cameras took pictures of the striking scenery.  After enjoying the  360-degree views for several minutes we headed back to camp.
            

For the remainder of the evening, we stood around the fire, feeding it large pieces of wood, and watched dusk slowly turn to night.  After some time, the marshmallows were brought out.  Roasting a marshmallow perfectly over an open fire is a skill I still need to master.  Nevertheless, the ones I roasted were still tasty.  Everyone retired to their tents for the night at 2215 (10:15pm).  Unlike the cadet tents, the Arctic 5-man tent I was sleeping in was not heated.  That didn't bother me because I was cozy inside an army sleeping bag, designed for extreme cold.  For added warmth, I wore a hat and gloves.
            
Reveille the next morning was around 0730 and everyone slowly climbed out of their tents.  The student doctor was picked up by a nurse sometime in the early morning because she had a flight to catch.  The fire had burned itself out during the night but was started up again by the senior cadets.  Breakfast consisted of more MREs but I barely ate mine because I wasn't feeling well.  I'm not sure what it was but my head was hurting.  It may have been from the cold or the food.  I stood off to the side and watched the cadets dismantle the tents and the campsite.  Lt. May came by at 1000 to see how things were going.  The original plan called for everyone to hike back to First Bridge but instead we would be driven back to Arctic Bay.  The cadets loaded everything into two red pickup trucks before climbing in.  I sat in the passenger seat and tried not to think about my headache.  (It turned out to be a migraine).  The garbage bags that had been filled were dumped at the town's landfill. 
            
Everyone was dropped off at their own house.  Once inside my residence, I took some pain killers and went straight to bed.  I later woke up and had some chicken soup but it wasn't enough.  I took the following day off work to rest and recover. 
            

Despite falling ill on Sunday, Operation Hilltop 13, (September 21-22), was a success.  Everyone had fun hiking the Road to Nanisivik, camping out on the land, and exploring the surrounding area.  As for me, I'll wear my Canada Goose parka next time because it seems my thick ski jacket wasn't thick enough to combat the cold.


End of Operation Hilltop 13 Mini-series.

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Operation Hilltop 13 - Part 1

KGVM - September 21, 2013.
Every September, the cadets of 3045 Army Cadet Corps go out on the land for a Field Training eXercise (FTX).  FTXs are the highlights of the regular training year for cadet corps across Canada because they give cadets the opportunity to put the skills and knowledge they learned in the classroom (map & compass, knots, bushcraft, fieldcraft, radio communication, etc.) to the test.  They are the equivalent of a school field trip.  The September FTX, codenamed Operation Hilltop, also enables the cadets of 3045 to complete an important training requirement: a 7km hike. 
            
Operation Hilltop 13, (the 13 stands for 2013), took place on the Road to Nanisivik with the final destination being just past the Second Bridge.  There are two bridges on Nunavut's longest road and the distance between them is exactly 7 kilometres.  The bridge closest to Arctic Bay is known as First Bridge and the one after is called Second Bridge.  ("A darn good arrangement.")  Cadets would be driven to the First Bridge where the hike would begin.  The senior cadets were required to complete the hike wearing rucksacks and overnight just past the Second Bridge.  The junior cadets only had to finish the hike and would be driven back to Arctic Bay. 
           
In the past, the hikes were done over rougher terrain but this forced adult staff to rely on ATVs to ferry food, equipment, and people to & from the camp site.  Staging the FTX near the Nanisivik Road enabled the use of heavier vehicles (pickup trucks).  The faster mobility would definitely be important in the event of an emergency.
            


The morning of Saturday, September 21, began with the sun steadily rising over King George V Mountain.  All participating cadets were required to be at the Community Hall for breakfast at 9am.  Senior cadets and adult staff overnighting on the land also had to bring their packed rucksacks and sleeping bags.  I arrived at 8:30, setting my belongings on the floor in the main hallway that had been turned into a makeshift cafeteria.  Irene, the town's mental health nurse, was in the kitchen preparing egg mcmuffins.  She was assisted by another nurse and a visiting student doctor.  For drinks, there was orange juice and water.  Two tables and chairs were set up in front of the kitchen for junior & senior cadets.  By 9:15, breakfast was in full swing.  Cadets were served from youngest to oldest, followed by adult staff.  Naturally, the egg mcmuffins were delicious, and everyone went back for seconds.
            
Seniors loading supplies.
Water sign next to the First Bridge.
After breakfast, the cadets were separated into two groups: seniors & juniors.  I was in charge of the senior group and Sean, the Grade 5 & 6 teacher at Inuujaq School, led the juniors.  My group would reach the campsite first and set everything up before the juniors' arrival.  An RCMP officer armed with a rifle would act as our protector against aggressive wildlife.  The senior cadets and I hopped into the back of one of the pickup trucks and were driven to the Gas Station by the Commanding Officer, Lt. May.  There, the seniors loaded tents, food, hot chocolate, cardboard, garbage bags, and other essential supplies onto the pickup truck.  Lt. May then drove us to the First Bridge, located half a kilometre beyond the airport.  Once we disembarked, I realized this was my first time exploring a portion of the Nanisivik Road beyond the airport.
            
Before the trek started, the seniors organized themselves into two lines.  I led the way while one of the senior Sergeants walked at the back.  The RCMP officer and the student doctor walked alongside us.  The sky was mostly blue and the temperature was in the minus single digits.  With my digital camera at the ready, I snapped photos of the rocky landscape and the unpaved road.  After following the road around the first large hill to our left, a large white Arctic hare suddenly appeared.  It had been hiding in a drainage pipe under the road and upon hearing our approach made a dash for safety.  It stopped several feet away and eyed us with curiosity. 
            
"He's been eating a lot," commented a cadet.  "He's fattening up for the winter."
            
"Wish I could keep it as a pet," I added.  I tried to get really close to the hare but he slowly moved away.  I'll catch him next time.
            


We continued following the Road to Nanisivik, slowly inching our way up the rocky hills.  To my right, I saw Holy Cross Point and the area where the Spring Camp was held back in May.  We stopped and had a quick rest, taking the rucksacks off our backs and stretching for 5 minutes.  When the trek resumed, the seniors took turns walking at the front of the group so that they wouldn't fall behind.  You're only as fast as your slowest person.
            


The next landmark we crossed were the liquor signs at the top of the first plateau, some 4 kilometres past the First Bridge.  Arctic Bay is a restricted community, meaning residents can only import alcohol if they have a permit.  The signs mark where this restriction begins and ends.  I quickly took photos of both signs before catching up to the seniors.  We took another short break at the top of the second plateau.  The views from here are spectacular. 
            


Beyond the second plateau, the ground became blacker and there was much more snow lying around.  The road slightly curves to the left and then becomes a straight path for a good kilometre.  Then it begins to dip and curve to the right.  As we followed the road's descent, I could see we were entering a small valley.  To the left, I could see a frozen river that ran alongside a tall brown mountain with a steep hillside.  "There's no way you could get a solid footing on that side," the RCMP officer commented.  "You would just slide back down all the time."  After walking several more metres, the road became straight again but continued to descend.
            

"I can see the Second Bridge!" a senior cadet exclaimed.
            
"Yes, I see it too," I replied with my eyes squinted.
            


Second Bridge.
It took about another ten minutes to reach the Second Bridge.  With every step we took, I could make out the red truck that had been driven there in advance.  About halfway down the road, the frozen river to our left makes a sudden 90 degree turn away from the road and runs between two hills.  The Second Bridge is built across a small stream that joins with the river.  It too was frozen.  After reaching the camp site, the seniors dropped their rucksacks and sat at the lone picnic table to catch their breaths.  I set my backpack down and took pictures of the surrounding valley.  The Road to Nanisivik continues for several metres before making a sharp left turn and ascends up a hill. 
            
"Don't get too comfortable," I advised the seniors.  "Once the juniors get here, there's work to be done."


To be continued . . .

Sunday, October 6, 2013

Fit For An Inuit King


I finally got the chance to sample the seal meat I acquired at the NTI community feast in late August.  I had wanted to try seal ever since I arrived in the north in 2012 but the opportunity somehow evaded me until now.
            
Seals, also known as pinnipeds, are a diverse clade of semiaquatic marine mammals that live and breed in the colder regions of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.  Seals have been hunted by humans for their meat and blubber for hundreds of years.  The Inuit use the fur coats of seals to make waterproof jackets & boots.  The clothing also provides protection against the harsh Arctic winters. 
            
The harvesting of seals has been controversial for many years and in fact, it is illegal to hunt and sell seal products in many countries.  For a time, I was leaning towards the outlawing of hunting seals but after living in the north for some time, I'm more neutral in the matter.  The Inuit live in the Arctic tundra, a geographic climate that is way above the tree line and too cold to grow crops (ie. wheat, fruits, vegetables), and to graze southern farm animals.  In order to survive, one must take what the land offers.  Yes, today it is possible to airlift food, clothing, and other supplies from the south, but that is very expensive.  The consumption of Arctic wildlife, aka 'country foods', and the use of their furs, bones, and blubber, saves the Inuit money and time.  When you really get down to it, every ethnicity has a controversial culinary dish.
            
On Sunday, September 8, I removed the seal meat from the freezer and let it thaw for a good 30 minutes.  Looking over the large piece, I saw that there was a fair amount of meat and fat for me to consume.  I pondered on various preparation methods but settled on the use of a slow cooker.  Regarding the amount, I originally wanted to cook the entire chunk of meat and save the leftovers for another day.  But since I was only cooking for myself, I decided to prepare a small piece instead.
            
Cutting the chunk of seal meat in half proved to be a challenge because of the large bone that was holding all the meat together.  Despite running the meat through hot water, my butcher knife couldn't cut through the bone.  Normally, I would have resorted to cutting off small pieces of meat but I had one more trick up my sleeve.  Using the saw segment of my machete, I was able to cut cleanly through the bone.  I'll spare you the aftermath photo.  There was a little seal blood here and there on the cutting board.
            

I put the large piece back in the freezer and prepared to fry the smaller piece on a frying pan.  I cooked all sides of the meat, watching it turn from red to brown.  Feeding my curiosity, I cut off a small piece and tasted it.  The meat tasted like . . . beef.  Sort of.  I set the meat aside and filled the slow cooker with water.  I tossed in some onions and celery before carefully placing the meat inside.  While adding salt to the concoction, I felt like a mad scientist trying out a new crazy experiment.  I hope you know what you're doing, my mind queried as I closed the lid and set the cooker on its lowest setting.  "I hope so too," I said out loud.
            
Fast forward seven hours and my residence was drenched in the aroma of slow cooked seal.  I expected a bad smell but thankfully that wasn't the case.  I turned off the slow cooker and removed the thoroughly cooked meat.  My first seal meat dinner was a simple affair with a side of salad and slow cooked vegetables.  The seal meat had a distinct taste, different from caribou and chicken.  If I had to describe it, the taste was similar to beef but with a strange aftertaste.  Regardless, I ate most of the meat and threw out the excess fat.  Definitely a good meal.
            

My second chance came a week later on Sunday, September 15th.  This time I chose to cook the remaining piece rather than hacking off another small piece with my machete.  I followed the same procedures, frying all sides on a frying pan before putting it into the water filled slow cooker.  The only changes I made were adding oregano and sliced carrots, on top of the onions and celery.  After seven hours, the meat was ready and I helped myself to large pieces of seal meat.  It was good that my stomach was getting used to the taste.
            
Despite preparing seal meat twice, I'm not yet ready to host a dinner party where it is the main course.  I'll need to experiment a few more times before I gain the needed experience and confidence.  If you come across the opportunity to try seal meat, go for it.  Go in with an open mind and sample what the Inuit have been eating for many generations.

A meal fit for an Inuit King.