Ice Chiseling

Water Pumping Station

The teaching staff of Inuujaq School can be equally split into two groups: Inuit & Qallunaaq (non-Inuit).  Nearly all qallunaaq teachers come from the provinces, and since the provinces are to the south of the Nunavut territory, we are called 'southerners' by the Inuit.  This title basically applies to all non-Inuit visitors.  Even though Nunavut is a part of Canada, the cultural landscape is much different.  For example, down south, bilingualism revolves around English & French.  In Nunavut, it's Inuktitut & English or French.  There are also many cultural differences and practices, too many to list in this post. 

            

Inuujaq School's teaching staff use a buddy system, pairing southern teachers with Inuk teachers so that the southerners become more in tune and in touch with Inuit language & culture.  These cultural exchanges can take place any time, but they usually occur on the weekends when there is no school.  The Inuk teachers can also act as translators during parent-teacher meetings. 

            

At the beginning of the year, I was paired with Kataisee, the high school Inuktitut teacher.  Up until January, we didn't have a chance to do a cultural exchange because of our busy schedules and school work.  Finally, an opportunity arose in the middle of the month.  Kataisee's elder mother, Qapik, needed fresh water because her stock of arctic ice was running out.  To replenish this supply, Kataisee goes out on the land every two weeks and collects large pieces of ice.   She asked me if I wanted to go ice chiseling with her.  I happily agreed because it was a cultural activity I had yet to experience.

            

Ice chiseling is when you collect fresh ice water that can be melted for drinking & cooking.  Before the communities were built in the 1960s & 1970s, ice chiseling and melting snow were the two primary methods of collecting fresh water.  Traditionally, it's the youngest daughter's/son's responsibility to look after the water needs of the family household.  This responsibility instills discipline and self-reliance in the child.

            

Qapik prefers water from ice because it's fresh, and has no contaminants & chemicals.  The chemicals that are used in water treatment & purification change the taste of tea.  When you use ice water, you can taste the tea, not the chemicals.  Her favourite is water from an iceberg because it quenches your thirst.

            

Arctic Bay in the distance.

Our ice chiseling adventure began in the afternoon on Sunday, January 18.  The temperature outside was a chilly -35ºC.  Kataisee picked me up in her truck and we drove towards the water pumping station behind the airport.  From there, we would walk onto the frozen lake and collect the ice using a long ice pick.  I had my machete with me just in case we needed a large knife.  The lake behind the water station was chosen because it contains fresh water and it was near a road that is routinely used by the water trucks.  If anything bad happened, we could flag down one of the drivers.

            

"That area is just one of the many places I go to get ice for my mother," explained Kataisee, as she drove along the Road to Nanisivik.  "My mother usually gives me specific instructions of where to get ice."

            

"Because she knows where all the best ice is," I said.

            

"Yes and so that I don't have to deal with polar bears and rabid foxes.  I usually have someone come with me because the bin gets very heavy when filled with fresh ice."

            

We arrived at the water pumping station after a 12-minute drive.  It was my first time seeing the small building up close.  The community's water trucks come here to refill their empty tanks before driving back to town to replenish the many empty water containers that sit underneath the buildings.  It would be most beneficial if the Government of Nunavut built a pipeline from the station to the Gas Station because that would greatly cut down the travel time and usage of gas for the water trucks.  And having the refill station closer to town would definitely come in handy in an emergency, like the infamous house fire we had in October 2014.     

            

Next to the water station sits a collection of weather measuring instruments and a small radio tower.  The weather data collected from these instruments (ie. temperature) is sent to Environment Canada.  When you check Arctic Bay's temperature on the Internet, it's really the temperature around the water pumping station.

            

Upon stepping out of the truck, I immediately felt the arctic cold on my face.  I was glad that I was wearing heavy winter clothing because the added wind chill made the temperature drop to -45ºC.  I carried the long ice pick and Kataisee carried the plastic bin & knife.  As we walked onto the frozen lake, Kataisee explained the 'science of ice chiseling.'  "There are specific ways to do it, otherwise, you'll be stuck out on the land for hours!"

            

Kataisee sweeps away snow around a crack in the ice.

Step 1: Find a crack in the ice.  If there is snow on top, then you have to shovel the snow away until you find a crack in the ice.  If you don't have a shovel, use your feet.

            

Step 2: When you find the crack, you sweep the snow away.  Using an axe, you make a long semi circle around it. If you don't make a semi-circle, then the ice pick will only break off very small pieces of ice, which are not worth using.  You want big pieces.  Plus, it would take you around 2 hours to fill a container.  Using the semi-circle method, your time gets cut down to 30 - 45 minutes. 

            

Step 3: Using a long ice pick, you hit the semi-circle at an angle so that the ice breaks off into large chunks.

            

Step 4: Place the large broken off pieces into a large container, and break them into smaller pieces using a knife.

            

Me ice chiseling for the first time.

Kataisee ice chiseling.

We both took turns breaking off large pieces of ice using the long ice pick.  From a distance, we looked like two hunters trying to catch a seal.  We also took pictures of the activity and the surrounding landscape but the extreme cold drained my camera battery after several minutes.  When we had collected enough ice, we pushed the large Rubbermaid container to the truck.  It took both of us to lift the container into the back of the truck.  Our cheeks were white when we sat inside.

            

Me holding a block of ice.

Bucket of ice.

We drove to Qapik's hut to deliver the collected ice.  Along the way, I learned that everyone in town takes turns getting her ice because she is a very respected elder.  She has a large barrel that is filled with ice all the time.  Locals periodically check to see if it's full or not.  If it's not, they will go and get some ice.  When hunters are out on the land, they will bring back ice for Qapik, if it's from an iceberg.

            

Me ice chiseling again.

Qapik has a house of her own but she prefers to spend most of her time in the hut that was built by her son.  Her hut serves as a sewing place and meeting room.  She does marriage counseling, mental health, child rearing, teaches sewing, and receives many visitors.  Her place is a main attraction in Arctic Bay, because she is the only elder who lives in a traditional hut that is only heated with seal oil for the last 50 years.  The last time families lived in huts was in 1964.  "All outside visitors & tourists make time to visit her," explained Kataisee.

            

"Does she ever get tired from all the visits?" I asked.

            

"No, she likes it."

            

Kataisee led me to Qapik's hut.  "It's been a tradition that when you bring Qapik fresh ice, you have to have tea & bannock with her."  Knowing that I was about to meet such a prominent elder in the community, I suddenly felt underdressed.

            

"I should have worn a suit," I said, commenting on my Canada Goose parka, snow pants, and heavy boots.

            

"No, no," chuckled Kataisee.  "What you have on is alright."

            

Qapik Attagutsiak. Photo taken by Clare Kines. Source: CBC News North.

In Inuit culture, when you enter & leave an elder's hut, you shake hands and introduce yourself.  Or you shake hands and get introduced.  Kataisee introduced me and I shook Qapik's right hand.  One light bulb illuminated the entire hut while two oil lamps provided heat.  Kataisee & her mother would be having tea while I would be drinking hot chocolate.  The hot water was boiled in a kettle that was hung above one of the oil lamps. 

            

Oil lamp boiling water.

While we waited for the water to boil, we talked about our ice chiseling adventure, Inuit culture, and Qapik's life experiences.  Kataisee  translated the conversation between Inuktitut and English.  Qapik has lived in the area of Arctic Bay since 1947.  She moved to the community in the 1970s when the school was built.  The government had told her family to move into the community because her children had to attend school. 

            

Inuit ice cream.

When the water was boiled, we each poured ourselves a cup.  We ate delicious bannock that Qapik had prepared several hours in advance.  We also had Inuit ice cream made from caribou fat.  It is the only known Inuit dessert.  This particular batch of ice cream also included store-bought currants.  Qapik usually makes it with wild blue & black berries.  The black berries, however, have to be shipped up from Iqaluit.  Several of Qapik's children live there.

            

When it was time to leave, I thanked Qapik for the hot chocolate, bannock, ice cream, and for hosting me.  She thanked me for bringing fresh ice.  Kataisee drove me back to my apartment.

            

"Your mother is very active in the community," I commented.

            

"Yes, she's still going strong," replied Kataisee.  "She'll be celebrating her 95th birthday this summer."

            

I thanked Kataisee for the cold & fun experience and for letting me meet her mother.  As her truck drove away, I wondered where I would be when I turned 95.  

Kataisee

    All background information was happily provided by Kataisee.  Thank you. 

QIA & Cadets

Source: qia.ca

The cadets of 3045 Army were quite active during the second week of January.  They participated in the QIA swearing-in ceremony at the community hall and organized a dance to raise money for the upcoming European trip in May (more on this later).

            

The Qikiqtani Inuit Association (QIA) recently elected PJ Akeeagok as its new president and chose Arctic Bay as the town to hold his swearing-in ceremony.  A community feast would immediately follow the ceremony.  The corps would supply volunteers to assist in the set up and distribution of the country food.

            

PJ arrived in Arctic Bay on the evening of January 14th.  Even though his flight had been delayed by several hours, he still visited 3045 and inspected the cadets on parade.  He arrived on the same day the corps holds its weekly training nights.

            

After inspecting the cadets on parade, PJ stood alongside the commanding officer, Lt. May, and observed the March Past.  He was given a few minutes to address the cadets on their dress, drill, & deportment, and thank them for volunteering for the QIA community feast.  PJ was then presented with a corps hoodie which he wore for the group picture.

            

Levi, QIA Liaison Officer for Arctic Bay.

The Swearing-in Ceremony & Community Feast occurred on the evening of January 15th at the local community hall.  Just several hours prior, he had spoken to the high school students of Inuujaq School about the QIA and its role in the Mary River Project.  The front of the hall was set up with a projector and screen, as well as tables with QIA pamphlets and information booklets.  The hall quickly filled up with people. 

            

The ceremony began at 7pm.  PJ & the visiting QIA members were introduced by Levi Barnabas, the local QIA liaison officer.  PJ was wearing a sealskin vest & tie over a collared shirt and sealskin kamiks (boots).  Levi & PJ spoke about the QIA and its future plans while pictures of the organization's activities appeared behind them on the projector screen.            

            

PJ Akeeagok recites the Presidential Oath of the QIA.

When the big moment came, a table covered in blue cloth & animal skin was set up in front of the audience.  An RCMP officer placed the presidential oath document and a bible on the table.  Two senior cadets from 3045, dressed in their green uniforms, took their positions on both sides of the table.  In the presence of the RCMP, QIA representatives, and the people of Arctic Bay, PJ Akeeagok placed his hand on the bible and read the presidential oath in English.  PJ received an extended applause from everyone after signing the oath.  The RCMP officer also signed the document as a witness.  A group photo was then taken of PJ, his wife, QIA representatives, and the two senior cadets.

            

PJ Akeeagok, now President of QIA, receives a congratulatory hug from his wife.

Flanked by his two cadet "bodyguards", PJ took a few minutes to address the audience (in Inuktitut) about what he intended to do as president of the QIA.  He kept it short & to the point because he already spent plenty of time promoting his platform during the election campaign. 

            

Cadets of 3045 set up tables for the community feast.

A short break was taken to let the cadets set up a row of tables and bring out the country food that was sitting in large cardboard boxes on stage.  A large white tarp was laid out in the middle of the hall to let people use it to cut up country food.  Two seals were placed on the white tarp for elders.  This community feast had quite an extensive menu: caribou stew, seal, arctic char, aged walrus (iguunaq), bread, tea, and coffee.  When the cadet volunteers were ready to serve, the word was given for the feast to begin.  I stood on a bench at the back and photographed the rush to the front of the hall.  Two long lines quickly formed.  The cadets handed out pieces of country food while wearing blue latex gloves.

            

I got into one of the long lines after taking several pictures.  While the line slowly inched forward, several Inuit elders opened up the two seals that were laying on the white tarp and began cutting off pieces.  The blood and insides of the animals did not phase anyone.  I was given a paper plate by a cadet when I walked up to the tables.  I requested raw arctic char and aged walrus.  I had tried walrus before but not when it was aged.  I was curious to see if there were any differences.

            

Aged walrus (igunaaq)

I sat down on a bench and began eating pieces of raw arctic char.  As always, it was delicious.  My body doesn't have a problem digesting raw fish; I eat sushi after all!  But then came the real challenge: aged walrus (igunaaq).  After getting past the distinct smell of the raw meat (that some may consider foul), I cut off a small piece from the chunk of meat and ate it.  The taste was alright but the sudden rush of energy was a surprise.  I ate a few more pieces before saving the rest for another time.

            

"If you had finished that entire igunaaq," a passing Inuk commented, "you would have been good for the next month."

            

"Definitely," I agreed.  Now I think I know why some Inuit stay up all night: they're eating igunaaq!    

             

People line up to buy things from the canteen at the Friday dance.

On Friday, January 16th, 3045 Army cadet corps held an evening dance at the community hall to raise money for the upcoming European trip.  As I mentioned in October of last year, the Royal Canadian Legion (Branch 168, Iqaluit) and the Order of St. George are organizing a 70th Anniversary of Victory in Europe trip through Educational Tours.  The trip is happening in May and will cater to selected cadets from northern corps across the territories.  At the moment, four cadets from 3045 are going on the trip, but we're trying to raise enough money to add two more cadets.

            

Jello

The dance began at 9pm with admission costing $3 per person.  The first half of the dance was for kids aged 13 & under.  A canteen had been set up in the kitchen and sold a variety of sweets.  People could buy pop, cupcakes, freezies, popcorn, chips, jello, and other junk food.  The music was mostly mainstream: pop music, hip hop, with a bit of electronic.  My favourite part was when all the kids covered their ears and ran off the dance floor when a Justin Bieber song was played. 

            

Near the end of the first half, the music was cut and the lights were turned on.  A relay race had been planned for the 13 & under kids.  They were divided into four teams and instructed to line up in the centre of the hall.  The race was quite simple.  The objective was to fill a plastic cup with water at one end of the hall.  The challenge was that you had to get the water from the other side of the hall and transport it back using a spoon.  The game was basically a variation of the egg-and-spoon race but the eggs were replaced with water.  Any water droplets that fall to the floor would be mopped up by the cadets.  The race was quick, careful, and energetic at the same time.  Slowly, the four cups filled with water.  The winning group was Team 4.  Their prize were rice-krispee squares.

            

The second half of the dance began at 11pm and it was for people 14 & over.  The choice of music changed slightly but mostly remained mainstream.  I didn't stay much longer because I was starting to fall asleep.  The following day I learned that the dance raised quite a bit of money.  I'm sure the four chosen cadets were pleased by the news.
   

The First Nine Days

A long line in front of the First Air check-in counters greeted me as I pushed my fully loaded baggage cart through the large sliding doors of the Ottawa International Airport.  It was the early morning of January 3 and I was already sweating underneath my heavy Canada Goose parka.  Here we go again, my mind quipped.

            

My Christmas vacation was short but fun.  I spent time with family & friends, bought school supplies, walked around town, and celebrated New Years.  It was strange to barely see any snow on the ground because Ottawa is usually knee-deep in snow in late December.  I was also surprised by how warm the temperature was, hovering around the minus single digits.  My parents & friends laughed at that observation, saying that I had been spending too much time in the far north.   

            

I visited one of Ottawa's newest landmarks, the Airport Parkway Pedestrian Bridge  (APPB).  I was glad to finally see it completed after being delayed for two years and going over-budget.  Building bridges has been a problem in my hometown for several years, with projects suffering from poor administration, leadership, communication, financing, and scheduling.  The APPB is no exception.  A part of the bridge had to be torn down and rebuilt in 2012 due to problems with the concrete.  Then work was halted in 2013 when design faults were found in the support systems.  The city eventually went with a different company to fix the bridge and is now suing the former contractor for financial compensation.  I can safely say that the bridge didn't collapse when I walked across it twice, and it hasn't collapsed since.

            

Another highlight of my short vacation was having cow tongues for Christmas dinner.  Cow tongue is a delicacy in Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and the Orient.  I tried my first cow tongue out of curiosity 15 years ago and was immediately hooked!  It tastes really good when slow cooked for many hours; the meat is tender & easy to cut.  I would recommend cow tongue to anyone.  Just remember that it tastes better than it looks.

            

The First Air check-in line moved at a snail's pace.  Once I was checked in, I had to drop off all my luggage at the oversized baggage counter.  And a long line was already beginning to form in front of that area.  When I was free of my heavy luggage, I got into another long line to go through security.  By the time I got to my gate and met the other teachers from my school, it was already time to board.  At least the boarding line was short and I was one of the first people to be allowed to step on the plane.  As the First Air plane ascended into the sky, my mind came to the conclusion that there are a lot of lines at airports. 

            

The plane touched down in Iqaluit with ease and taxied to the yellow terminal.  We had about a two-hour wait before the Arctic Bay flight, so I used my time wisely and walked over to Yummy Shawarma for a quick lunch.  The temperature was in the minus thirties but I didn't feel that particularly cold.  The principal joined us on the flight to Arctic Bay.  As the turboprop flew into the clouded arctic skies towards the northwest, it suddenly dawned on me that we were all heading back into dark season.  It would be another month before the sun would reappear in Arctic Bay.

            

Frank was waiting for me at the airport.  He and many other familiar faces greeted me as I walked into the warm & brightly lit terminal building.  The time was 5:40pm but outside, it looked like 8 or 9pm.  After Frank dropped me off at my place, I unpacked, reorganized everything, and relaxed.  It felt nice to be back.

            

Sunday January 4th was spent organizing my classroom, getting rid of old student work that no one would claim, and planning for the first day of the new semester.  I would be teaching three classes this semester: Grade 10 English, Grade 11 Social Studies, and Grade 10 Instrumental Guitar.

            

The first day of school was unexpectedly delayed to Tuesday, January 6th because there were not enough teachers for Monday.  For Tuesday, I introduced myself, shook the hands of several students' and went over the course outlines.  Grade 10 English would be my largest class with 18 students.

            

For the first two weeks, my English students studied literary elements & techniques, and read a variety of short stories.  I preselected the stories based on vocabulary, level of interest, and relevance.  Near the end of the second week, my students began writing their own short stories, using the literary elements & techniques they learned.

            

The Grade 11 Social Studies course would contain much of the same material as last semester; only the student body would be entirely different.  My new students began the course by studying the British Industrial Revolution of 1750-1850.  I slightly tweaked the lessons to include more in depth information about the inventors of the time and the significances of the devices they created.  My students learned about Edmund Cartwright (power loom), James Hargreaves (spinning jenny), Samuel Crompton (spinning mule), and James Watt (steam engine), just to name a few.

            

Music 10 Guitar would also be much of the same as the previous semesters because for now, I'm only teaching a basic guitar course.  However, this time, I'm going to be pushing my students to read traditional notation instead of just relying on guitar tablature, and getting them to perform in front of large audiences.  I'm aiming to have our first school performance in early February when the sun comes back.  Yes, the famous tune, You Are My Sunshine, will be on the repertoire.

            

It's been several months since I bought my skidoo and I'm having lots of fun driving it around town.  It still takes between 10 - 15 minutes to warm it up but that's part of the experience.  I know much gas is wasted because of idleness but when you're dealing with the arctic cold, that's all you can do.  Sometimes, the skidoo needs 20 minutes to warm up.  I haven't had the time to take it out on the land but that's coming up in the spring.  I still need time to acquire a qamutik and camping supplies.  I did, however, receive my new skidoo helmet in the mail.  It protects my entire head & face from injury.  Safety first!  The only snag is that it's a little heavy.  When I wear it with my goggles, I look like Darth Vader or one of his stormtroopers.

            

January 13th, 2015 was a special day for me because on that day, I achieved my first significant milestone in my full-time teaching career: 365 days of teaching!  I began counting the work days when I started teaching in Iqaluit in 2012. 

            

PJ Akeeagok

PJ Akeeagok, recently elected president of the Qikiqtani Inuit Association (QIA), visited Inuujaq School on January 15th to talk to the high school students about the history and roles of the QIA, and the Mary River Project.  He was also in town because the organization decided to hold his swearing-in ceremony at the local community hall (more on this in a future post). 

            

QIA "represents over 14,000 Inuit of the Qikiqtani (Baffin) region... The Qikiqtani region includes 13 communities from Quttiktuq (High Arctic) down to Sanikiluaq (Belcher Islands)."  The organization was established in 1996 and registered as a society in 1997.  They "work closely with [their] partners and different levels of government to ensure the Inuit are being adequately served."  They also make sure the federal & territorial governments are implementing the terms of the Nunavut Land Claims Agreement of 1993.     

            

The QIA presentation was held in the high school science classroom.  I stood at the back and snapped a few pictures.  PJ is originally from Grise Fiord and is fluent in Inuktitut.  I recognized his face when I began teaching Grade 10 Social Studies.  He and three other Inuit students from across Canada assisted in the preparation of the Staking The Claim module several years ago.

            

The entire presentation was conducted in Inuktitut.  I think that was the best course of action because the students would have a better level of understanding.  The southern teachers & I still listened and tried to decipher what was being discussed through body language.  I did understand a few words here and there but I still have a lot more learning to do.

          

At the end of the presentation, PJ and the high school students posed for a group photo.