The
movers came to pick up a number of large items at the beginning of August. I didn't want to take the large boxes with me
because I would have paid a small fortune to check them all in as luggage. After signing the documents, the movers
explained that it would take up to three weeks for all the boxes to
arrive. They were surprised to hear that
I was travelling so far north, some 3,120 kilometres. With the heavy stuff out of the way, I
focused on packing my suitcase and resource box. The resource box contained textbooks, games,
and office stationary for my classroom.
I caught my flights to Arctic Bay on
August 5th, a week before the start of school.
I wanted to be in town that early so that I could get my classroom &
residence in order, and ease back into the community. The morning began with a morning flight from
Ottawa to Iqaluit on a First Air passenger jet.
The principal of my school happened to be on the same flights. There were other familiar faces on the plane
but I didn't know them by name. Since I
had breakfast before the flight, I chose to forgo the lunch that was being
served. Before lifting off from Ottawa,
we were warned that our flight could be diverted because of fog in
Iqaluit. Thankfully, that didn't happen. The plane safely touched down in Iqaluit,
three hours after departure.
My connecting flight would not
depart until 2:30pm so I stuck around the terminal and waited. The building was packed with passengers. There are plans for a $300 million dollar expansion of the airport which would include: a new larger terminal, expanded
apron, repaved runway, and new lighting systems. The construction phase is scheduled to take
place between 2014 & 2017.
By the time 2:15 rolled around, the
terminal was no longer crowded. Since
the plane was a turboprop, passengers didn't have to go through enhanced
security screening. A loading bus took
us to the parked plane. Usually, it's
'open seating' on the turboprop flights; it doesn't matter what your ticket
says. I took a seat at the front (more
leg room), which actually was the middle of the plane. The front half is reserved for the cockpit,
luggage, and freight.
The First Air turboprop lifted off
the runway a little past its scheduled departure time but it didn't concern
me. We would be in the air for another
three hours. After touching down in Arctic
Bay, the plane would continue on to Resolute.
I also chose to forgo the complementary lunch that was being served on
the flight. The passengers were mostly
qallunaat (non-Inuit) than Inuit.
Looking down at the land, I was in
awe at how everything looked without a thick layer of white snow. When I flew down in June, there was still
snow on the ground; this time, there was none.
The colours of the rocky landscape were brown, black, beige, and
red. The melting snow had created
thousands of pools of water. The red
mountains & hills made me think of Australia and the red planet Mars.
Pockets of green vegetation began to
appear as the plane neared Arctic Bay. I
snapped several more pictures before the plane landed on the gravel paved
runway. The waterways were completely
free of ice. As I stepped off the plane
and took in the familiar surroundings, I muttered to myself, "Utiqtunga
(I'm back)".
The principal and I got a ride into
town by a local Inuit man for $20.
Unfortunately, the town's only taxi wasn't working. After letting myself into my residence, I set
about unpacking all my belongings and putting everything back the way it was
before I left in June. When that was
done, I pretty much crashed on my bed.
It felt good to be back.
I spent the next week carrying books
and other resources to my classroom, rearranging my classroom, writing course
outlines, preparing lessons, and greeting locals. The temperature hovered between 4º & 14ºC. I was frequently stopped by people wanting to
know how my summer went and where did I spend it. I lost count at how many times I heard the
phrase, "Welcome back!"
My classroom in the high school wing
looked exactly the way I left it in June.
I went through all the drawers and cupboards to remember what textbooks
and resources I had at my disposal. And
then I checked if there was anything I could discard into the garbage. Next came arranging the tables and
chairs. I decided to try a different
setup than the one I used last semester.
I was pretty much alone in the high school wing because all the other
non-Inuit staff had yet to arrive. Most
of the Inuit staff instruct K-6.
Writing course outlines aren't difficult;
they're just time consuming. They give
students a heads up on what they will learn in the course, how they will be
marked, and what the teacher expects from them.
It's also a good way of laying out the ground rules and what will and will
not be tolerated in class.
Since it's summer and the waterways
are open, the locals are awaiting the arrival of the annual sealift. The cargo ship is scheduled to arrive during
the last week of August. To save money
and time, people living in communities across the northern territories order
supplies of any kind (minus contraband) from down south and have it brought
up by ship every summer. Families and
individuals order supplies and materials that will last them for the year. The cargo vessels sail from Montreal. Though it takes longer for orders to arrive by sea than
air, the sealift is actually cheaper when ordering in bulk. There are a number of companies that run sealift
operations in the north, for example, NEAS, Sealift Express, and Desgagnés Transarctik Inc.
Of course, the sealift is a great
way to replenish depleted stocks of supplies.
I write this because the town's Co-op is currently facing a shortage of
pop. Right now, a can of Coke costs $6
and a 2L bottle (the first I've seen in the north) costs $28.99. Forget drugs and alcohol; looks like a lot of
money can be made from 'bootlegging' pop.
I'm not saying you should because that's not what the people of the
north need right now. What they need are
more healthy food options at affordable prices. Thankfully, the Northern Store isn't
experiencing such inflated prices on pop.
And lastly, when it comes to time,
the Internet may say one thing, but the locals of Arctic Bay say another. We actually follow Eastern Time, not Central. I'm not sure why; I just roll with it.
Hi Adrian!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for writing this blog. I discovered it while looking into traveling to the arctic next year. I'm a writer, and I'm very interested in extreme experiences of sunlight, so you can perhaps understand why the arctic is top on my list.
I was writing to see if it'd be okay to correspond with you a little bit about Nunavut? I'm considering traveling there either this winter or next summer--ideally to stay for about 2 weeks. I want to make sure to plan wisely, and to also determine if this place would be the right place for me to visit.
You can see more about me at my blog, silentbroadcast.com. Also, please feel free to get in touch with me. I teach at an art college. slee [at] uarts [dot] edu
warmly,
Juliette
Hello Juliette,
DeleteThank you for your comment. It is great to hear from readers. I recently visited your blog and enjoyed reading your posts.
The constant sunlight takes some time to get used to and it can be a bother when trying to sleep. Curtains and/or sleeping eye patches are your best friends. The sun never sets in Arctic Bay during the short summer months - after that, it dips below the mountain and you get a constant dusk through the 'night'. By December, the day becomes 24 hour night. Vitamin D tablets are a necessity at that time.
Based on experience, the only hindrances to visiting Nunavut are costs and the weather. From planes tickets to food to winter clothing to hotel rooms, the prices are expensive. A two week excursion to Nunavut is a good length of time for a first time visitor, but hotel room prices could make that difficult. Also, I would recommend travelling in the summer for the first time. The winters can get really cold (ie. -40 with windchill).
A good place to start would be Nunavut Tourism. Their website has a lot of information on what there is to do in the territory and how to get there. If you're only planning to visit Nunavut, I would start in Iqaluit, the territorial capital because it's like a southern city.
Cheers,
Adrian