Thursday, November 29, 2018

Two Feasts


*Warning: This post contains images that some readers may find graphic.


The Qikiqtani Inuit Association (QIA) hosted a community meeting & feast on November 20.  The focus of the meeting was to present & discuss the findings of the progress report on the Tallurutiup Imanga Inuit Impact and Benefit Agreement (TIIIBA) negotiations.  QIA and the Government of Canada have been in talks since early 2018 to create a marine conservation area in the high arctic.  So far, both parties have reached an agreement in principle.  If the negotiations are a success, the Tallurutiup Imanga National Marine Conservation Area (TINMCA) will be created.  The feast would conclude the meeting.
            


I walked into the community hall at 6pm to find an impressive setup.  There were three tables at the front, draped with QIA banners.  There were also two separate standing banners on opposite sides of the stage.  A large project screen hung above the stage.  A large delicious cake sat on the table on the left.  The centre table contained a laptop, projector, two chairs, and a microphone for the presenters.  The table on the right featured QIA memorabilia (ie: water bottles, sweaters) and free TIIIBA documents for the public.  In front of this impressive display lay a large tarp with a dead seal & cut up seal meat.  Wow, QIA really went all out for this, I thought.  I later found out that QIA was touring all the northern communities that would be affected by TIIIBA & TINMCA.  They are: Clyde River, Pond Inlet, Arctic Bay, Resolute Bay, & Grise Fiord.
            

There was more country food at the back of the hall.  Pieces of raw arctic char lay on top of large RONA tarp.  There was also a line of tables with bowls of bread, bannock, fruits, cheese, sandwiches, and macaroni.
            
Levi Barnabas starts the meeting.
The meeting began at 6:15pm.  Local QIA representative, Levi Barnabas, introduced himself and the visiting QIA members.  An elder officially opened the meeting with a prayer.  The audience was shown a bilingual slideshow – (Inuktitut & English) - that explained TIIIBA, TINMCA, and what has been done up until now.  I was able to grab a free printed copy of the slideshow and follow along.  We also watched a short QIA-produced video that was shot in Arctic Bay.  I recognized many locals in the video.
            
Still frame of the QIA video that focused on Arctic Bay.
Pictured here are Arctic Bay's Roland Taqtu & Mishak Allurut.
Five men who were featured in the video posed in front of the large cake before the feast began.  They are Rangers and members of the Hunters & Trappers Organization (HTO).  They wore blue QIA hats.
            


Elders enjoying seal.
Everyone dove into the country food on the floor, armed with plastic bags.  The rule is “first come, first served.”  It’s the same for food on tables, but you have to line up.  I took two pieces of char and placed them in a plastic bag.  I then continued taking photographs.  Elders cut up the seal at the front of the hall and enjoyed fresh, raw seal meat.  I sat down when I was satisfied with the photographs I took.  I decided to eat some char.  I cut off pieces using my ulu (knife).  I saved the rest for a later time.
            

I left as names were being drawn for door prizes.  I declined to participate because I already have enough stuff at my place.  I hope the agreement is ratified by both parties and TINMCA becomes a reality. 

QIA mascot . . . I think.

HTO held its own community feast on November 26.  There was no meeting at this feast; just an organization sharing an abundance of country & southern foods with the people of Arctic Bay.  I think most of it was ordered, but some was caught by the HTO.  Events like these are always welcome, given the serious food insecurity problem that’s crippling the territory.  (The majority of Nunavut households are food insecure because of very high food prices.)  The menu consisted of: char, caribou, walrus, seal, lobster, bannock, vegetables, and fruits.  The country food lay in the middle of hall on a very large tarp.
            
Celery & lobsters.

An elder blessed the food and the feast began at 7:30pm.  Everyone charged into the centre with their plastic bags.  I was packing Ziplock freezer bags.  No one is rough; you just grab and go.  If someone beats you to it, too bad.  Just move on to the next best piece.  Otherwise, you’ll end up with nothing.  I filled two bags with char, caribou, and aged walrus.  You had to get the caribou meat at the front of the hall on stage.  In front of the stage were line of tables that had the bowls of vegetables, fruits, bannock, and lobster.  I took a paper plate and grabbed a lobster head, a piece of bannock, and some orange slices.  I consumed the bannock & oranges, but only ate small pieces of the country foods.  Raw walrus is an acquired taste.
            

Char, caribou, walrus, lobster, bannock,
& oranges.
I noticed several people glancing at me while I ate.  I think Inuit are always amused when they see a non-Inuk eating raw country food.  I just pretend I don’t notice.  Sometimes, people will come up and ask me if I like the country food to which I reply, “Yes.”  I know eating raw meat carries some risk, but I think the skill is necessary, especially in times of (arctic) survival.
            

I stayed a few more minutes before making my exit.  The week had just begun and tonight was a school night.  I had to be fully rested and ready to teach the following day.   

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