Revisiting The Pond Inlet Shortcut

I was back on the land on April 21.  The spring weather was perfect so I didn’t want to miss the opportunity.  My destination was an area I previously explored in 2016; the Pond Inlet Shortcut.  While I was driving towards Baillarge Bay on April 17, I reminisced exploring that area in 2016.  The thought directed me to ponder where else I travelled that year?  The shortcut to Pond Inlet came to mind.  On the way back to Arctic Bay, I decided to revisit that area and see if I could drive further inland.  If you recall three years ago, I tried to go across a path covered in rocks but my skidoo tipped over.  I was able to lift the skidoo back on its proper side, turn it around, and return home.  That took a lot of time & strength.  This time I was going to be more careful.

            

Following the same established routine, I packed everything I needed for the day trip.  There’s a standard list of essentials I follow every time and it hasn’t failed me yet.  The list only gets longer.  The latest addition was the beaver mitts I purchased not long ago.  I was so impressed by their ability to keep my hands warm during my Baillarge Bay trip that I would use them again.  My Canada Goose gloves would be the backup.

            

I should point out that there is another overland shortcut to Pond Inlet that runs by the old Nanisivik Airport.  Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with this route and I’ll have to find someone to show me this way some day.  I’ve been told several times that this route is more reliable because there are less boulders & rocks.

            

It took a little more time to get ready.  I try to be ready in an hour but I needed 90 minutes for some reason.  I made sure my door was locked after I completed my final checks.  Everything I needed for the trip was on the skidoo, in my backpack, and in my outer clothes.  I sat on my skidoo and waited an extra minute before driving down to the ice.  I must have looked like an astronaut because I was wearing a skidoo helmet and my large black backpack looked like an oxygen tank.  I was still able to safely steer my skidoo despite my heavy outer clothing and the shotgun bag slung across my chest.  I was down on the ice at 11:30am.

            

Like I said before, the weather was perfect.  Clear blue skies with a bright shining sun.  We don’t have to worry about rain or thunderstorms up here.  A blizzard, maybe, but I doubted that would happen today.  I drove along the coast towards Uluksan Point.  The place is used as a family camping ground during the spring and summer months.  The place was deserted when I drove by.

            

I entered Adams Sound and drove southeast, following a skidoo track.  The track helped me get around large patches of snowdrifts and ice boulders.  I was driving into the wind but my helmet & goggles protected my entire head & face.  My hands were still warm thanks to my beaver mitts.  I didn’t see any people or seals while I drove.  The chances of successfully catching seals in this area in late April are slim.  But I guess that didn’t stop someone from driving along this route.  Of course, they could have been coming from or going to Pond Inlet?             

I reached Qajuutinnguat after 45 minutes of driving.  I’ve camped here with the cadets in 2014 & 2015.  There are two small fishing lakes and a waterfall located here.  I didn’t stop because I had already marked the location on my GPS in May 2018.  I just glanced to my left a few times and continued driving.

            

There must have been a strong wind that blew between the mountains after Qajuutinnguat because sections of the skidoo trail were no longer visible.  That didn’t bother me because I had driven through here before and knew where to drive.  And then the reality cheque appeared            

I had almost reached the end of Adams Sound.  I was driving on the right side and could see the mountain with the kissing man shadow.  Suddenly, my eyes spotted something to my left.  I looked and saw open water.  My heart skipped a beat.  I also probably said something I shouldn’t have.  Sorry Mom.  Luckily, the open water didn’t stretch across the diameter of the sound.  It appeared to be an open puddle.  A large and deep open puddle.  I stayed clear, made a mental note, and kept driving.  Never rely on last year’s ice, my conscience kept repeating.

            

A line of snowdrifts informed me where the water underneath ends and solid lands begins.  I found an opening and drove through it.  I breathed a sigh of relief.  The skidoo trail here was really faint and hard to follow.  Since I was on dry land, I could move around more freely and create my own skidoo trail.  I just had to avoid rocks and thin ice in the riverbeds.  There are a lot of rocks in this area.  ♫ Big ones, small ones, some as big as your head. ♫ (Okay, I’ll stop).

            

Three years ago, I avoided the rocks by driving on the left side of the riverbeds.  This time I ended up driving on the right side.  I stopped on top of a small hill and took a short break.  I had been driving for over an hour.  Silence greeted me when I turned off my skidoo engine.  It wasn’t as deafening as when I was at Ship Point but it was still noticeable.  I threw bits of light snow at the exposed silver muffler.  The snow immediately turned to steam.  I took several pictures of the surrounding mountains and ate a few snacks.  When you drive on the right side of the riverbed there are less rocks and this yellow-like grass that sticks out from under the snow.  This combined with the snow, makes you feel like you’re driving over a soft carpet.  I continued driving further inland. 

            

Path to the right.

I stopped a few times to inspect the land ahead before driving forward.  I found the main skidoo trail again.  The mountains began to close in.  You begin to feel as if you’re in a canyon.  I followed the riverbed; the snow tends to be softer.  At around 2pm, I arrived at the mountain that forms a Y intersection.  The riverbed to the right is full of rocks and most likely ends at a hidden cliff.  The riverbed to the left is where the shortcut to Pond Inlet continues.  Unfortunately, what I saw didn’t look good.

            

Path to the left.

I stopped my skidoo at the beginning of the path that led to the left of the mountain.  There were many, many rocks sticking out of the snow.  Three years ago, there was much more snow.  If I wanted to drive to exactly where I stopped in 2016 and continue, I would have to drive over the rocks.  I decided to investigate on foot.

            

My shotgun shook as I fired a slug into the air.  The sound echoed off the mountains.  I fired another slug into the air.  Polar bear sightings are very rare in this area but I wasn’t taking any chances.  I left my skidoo & backpack behind and went to inspect the rocky trail.  I held my shotgun close to me.  The only thing I could hear was the crunching sounds of my boots on the snow.

            

My skidoo in the distance.

The sun shined brightly.  I was glad I had sun glasses to wear.  I hiked up a nearby hill to get a better view of the trail.  Sure enough, there were rocks all along the path.  There was one clear patch in the middle of the narrow pass but getting there was going to be a challenge.  I really wish I had dynamite, I said to myself.  I’ve been told that many years ago, miners from Nanisivik used dynamite to blow up the large rocks to make it easier for Inuit to pass through with their skidoos and qamutiks.  (The Nanisivik mine closed in 2002).  I walked down from the hill and explored a little more of the trail.  My search only turned up more rocks.  I could have walked further but my conscience reminded me that I had left my backpack of supplies by the skidoo.  I turned around and walked back. 

            

I ate several snacks and pondered on what to do next?  I had just spent an hour exploring & photographing the narrow rock-filled passageway.  I could try to get through or turn around and go home.  I think the decision was pretty easy to make.  I needed to find someone to show me the other shortcut through the Nanisivik Airport.  I packed everything up and pull-started my skidoo.  When the engine was warm enough, I turned around and headed home.

            

I drove at a leisurely pace.  I followed my skidoo tracks and drove onto the ice without much trouble.  I drove cautiously, avoiding the open water now on my right side.  When that was safely behind me, I drove faster, enjoying my time out on the land.  I didn’t have to worry about the wind because I was driving with it.  I felt like I was in the opening credit sequence to the 1969 film Easy Rider, but with a Canadian Arctic twist.

            

About halfway to Arctic Bay, I stopped next to a large collection of ice boulders.  It could have been a really small iceberg, I’m not sure.  I used it as a backdrop to photograph my skidoo.  I also took a picture of the slanted mountains.  I was at home by 4pm.

            

Overall, the day trip was nice.  Once again, large rocks prevented me from going further inland.  At least I learned something important about Adams Sound; watch out for open water near the end of the waterway.  Exploring the alternate route by the old airport is now on my list of places to explore.   

Nunavut Awards: Commissioner & Quest

Two public events took place on April 18 at the local community hall.  They were the Nunavut Commissioner’s Awards and the Nunavut Quest Awards.  Nellie Kusugak personally flew up to Arctic Bay from Iqaluit to present her awards to the lucky recipients.  David Akeeagok, Deputy Premier of Nunavut, also travelled with the Commissioner for the event.  A third VIP, PJ Akeeagok, President of the Qikiqtani Inuit Association (QIA), would be present for the second ceremony in the evening.  The Nunavut Quest Planning Committee (NQPC) must have been grateful to have these three VIPs in attendance.    

A cadet presence was requested for the Commissioner’s Awards ceremony.  The organizers wanted the cadets to escort the guests into the hall.  It was also strongly hinted that the corps would be receiving an award.  But for what?  The ceremony was happening in the middle of Easter Break but I was able to find several cadets to attend in their green dress uniforms.  I also attended as the corps commanding officer.

VIPs.

The first ceremony began at 1:30pm.  I arrived 15 minutes early.  The Canadian & Nunavut flags stood on pedestals at the front of the hall.  Four chairs sat in front of the flags for the VIPs.  To the left stood a clear podium and next to that was a small table for Qapik Attagutsiak, Arctic Bay’s prominent elder.  Her qulliq sat on the table.  To the right of the flags was the awards table, full of plaques, framed certificates, and pins.  At the far-right corner were the reception tables.  The middle area of the hall was full of grey fold out chairs for the audience.

An RCMP officer led the procession of VIPs to their chairs.  They were the Commissioner, Deputy Premier, Mayor Frank May, and QIA Arctic Bay Representative Levi Barnabas.  A cadet marched beside each VIP.  The audience stood as the guests arrived.  Everyone remained standing for the playing of the national anthem and the lighting of the ceremonial qulliq.  Qapik spoke about the importance of the qulliq in Inuit life & culture.  Her daughter Kataisee acted as the English translator.  Everyone then took their seats.  The cadets sat behind Qapik.

Mayor Frank May.

Frank May’s daughter Becky was the emcee.  She welcomed the commissioner and everyone to the ceremony.  What followed were a series of short speeches by the Mayor, Deputy Premier, and QIA Rep.  The Commissioner’s speech would be at the end of the ceremony.

Levi B.

Three gentlemen were called up first to receive their plaques, recognizing their search & rescue efforts several months ago.  One was unable to attend so his father accepted the award on his behalf.  Next came Sheena Q., Audrey Q., and Moses K., who each received plaques praising their volunteering & humanitarian work within the community.  Several Rangers were present in uniform to receive a plaque in recognition of the work they do in the community, out on the land, and with the Canadian Armed Forces.  When the military hold their annual arctic training exercises, the Rangers teach the soldiers how to survive in the cold, harsh arctic climate. 

Sheena Q.

One of the Rangers in attendance also happened to be a volunteer firefighter.  He accepted the next plaque on behalf of all the volunteer firefighters in the community.  Members of the Search & Rescue (SAR) Committee were the next recipients of the Commissioner’s plaque.  (I’m do not know the details of the SAR operation that recently happened.  All I know is that everyone was rescued).

SAR Committee.

The best was saved for last.  3045 Army Cadet Corps was called up to receive a Commissioner’s plaque “[i]n appreciation of your volunteerism, commitment, to Arctic Bay and promoting healthy living.”  I accepted the plaque and called up the cadets in uniform for a group photo.

Nellie Kusugak.

Nellie gave a short speech at the end of the ceremony, talking about the awards, the importance of recognizing leaders in the community, and the progress Nunavummiut are making since the creation of Nunavut in 1999.  Her last act of the ceremony was to give a gift to Qapik.  Everyone lined up at the reception tables for snacks after the ceremony.

The second ceremony began at 8:00pm.  A few changes to the layout were made before the ceremony began.  All the grey foldout chairs were lined up against the walls as well in front of the stage.  The comfier black chairs were placed on stage for the competitors.  The clear podium and the flags were also placed on stage.  A QIA banner hung from the ceiling above the stage.  I believe the Inuit organization made a donation to the annual dog sled race. 

I wore civilian clothing and would be a spectator this time.

Levi B. tries the whip.

A few members of the NQPC took turns demonstrating the art of using a dog whip in the middle of the hall.  The whip was quite long.  Seeing it flow from the back to the front is a great example of wave physics.  The whip made a small snapping noise.  No one was hurt.  The whip was put away when the flow of people coming inside greatly increased.  The hall was packed when the ceremony began.

The support team members were called out first.  They stood in the front of the stage.  The competitors came in after, walking on stage and sitting on the black chairs.  Everyone involved in the race came from Arctic Bay, Pond Inlet, Igloolik, Hall Beach, and beyond.  There were 12 competitors this year.  This year is the 20^th anniversary of the dog sled race.

The ceremony began with a collection of speeches from NQPC members, competitors, David Akeeagok, and Levi Barnabas.  Then each competitor was given a gift for participating in the race.  The top three finalists received another gift and a cash prize.  The support team members also received gifts of some kind, in recognition for the hard work they invested in keeping the competitors going. 

Piuyuq (far right) receiving her
commemorative plaque.

The NQPC members each received a Nunavut Commissioner’s plaque for their efforts in planning & staging the race.  They also received special commemorative plaques from the QIA.  The organization presented the final award of the night to the Grade 1 teacher, Piuyuq E.  The award celebrated her 40 years of teaching in the north.

Nellie Kusugak concluded the ceremony with a prepared speech.  It was similar to the one she gave earlier.    

Audience.

The formalities were now finished and the time of celebration had arrived.  There would be Inuit games for everyone to play.  To get the festivities started, the local square-dancing club, composed of middle & high school students, performed a dance routine in the middle of the hall.  They wore traditional Inuit clothing and danced continuously for 15 minutes!  I filmed the entire performance.  My arms were aching from having to hold the camera high above the audience.  I really need to use a camera stick.  The dancers received an extended applause when they finished their routine.

I left after the square dance because I had to plan another land trip.  (More on that in a future post).  The parking lot was full of skidoos and trucks. 

And finally, the 2019 Qamutik Cup competition finished two days ago (April 23).  Unfortunately, Arctic Bay did not win the cup.  However, the two teams should be commended for "fighting" all the way to the end.  There’s always next year.